Maria Lorena Ortega- BA Graphic Branding and Identity We live in a fast-paced world, where innovation is at the core centre. When we talk about fashion design, innovation plays a big role. The fashion audience is increasingly demanding more, especially the audience of haute-couture and designer brands, as most consumers want to wear unique and stand out. Therefore, I believe innovation is key to meet the audience needs and key for a fashion house to remain relevant and contemporary in this fast-paced world. In my opinion, when we refer to innovation in terms of fashion design, we are talking about disruptive designs in relation to classic / neutral fashion, the ability to be creative outside the boundaries and to challenge the conventional and traditional aesthetics of design to create something completely bizarre and creative, yet functional. Which can sound similar to what is considered anti-design, a movement that started in 1960 in Italy that challenged the modernist style by introducing striking and bold colours, embracing ornamentation and decoration. Characterised by kitsch, irony, and the distortion of scale with the function of subverting the conventional way of what people thought about design, with the purpose of creating pieces that were meant to stand out for their extravagance and to be looked at and enjoyed. Therefore, would a haute couture brand or a fashion designer who takes an innovative approach towards design and produces distinctive and uncommon designs be considered anti-design? For instance, Virgil Abloh. Virgil was one of the world’s most disruptive and innovative voices and was best known for being Louis Vuitton Men’s Artistic Director. He was the seminal boundary breaker in a notoriously bordered business. “I operate by my own rules, in my own logic, and I’m not fearful.” (Abloh, 2021) With his own street style, Virgil masterfully altered the rules of luxury fashion with cutting-edge designs while upholding the history and heritage of Louis Vuitton. The highlight of his career with Louis Vuitton was his 2020-2021 show where he looked to conventional dress norms and reinterpreted them under the term of "streetwear". The outcome was a wide range of classy styles with innovative and unique details. Louis Vuitton Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Collection A more radical brand who has broken completely the rules of fashion design is Balenciaga for example. Balenciaga has recently shifted from its heritage roots to the opposite of what the traditional fashion industry stands for, becoming a meme of haute couture, inspired by the sarcasm and humour of Gen Z. The brand has transformed the way the fashion industry views exclusivity, by making it less about who can afford it and more on who actually buys and wears it. And through its distinctive and original designs and concepts Balenciaga has resonated with current generations looking for something cool and different to stand out from the typical styles of other fashion houses. Balenciaga Crocs Balenciaga Resort 2022 Balenciaga IKEA Bag Finally, The Met Gala. The Metropolitan Museum of Art hosts an annual fundraising gala celebrating the Costume Institute’s magnificent new exhibition on a changing theme. Here the guests wear extravagant and disruptive outfits designed by the top designers and fashion houses. The revolutionary dress of Rihanna at the Met Gala of 2017 by Comme des Garçons In conclusion, now days there are many designers and fashion houses that are opting for innovative approaches towards design. Some as Balenciaga, more radical than others. But I wouldn’t consider them anti-design as I strongly believe that design innovates and should not be repetitive, but unique. Therefore, I admire fashion houses that have distinctive styles as it is what makes them stand out and stay relevant within new generations, while keeping at the core the main essence and historic heritage of the brands. However, I do believe that the anti-design movement has strongly influenced the fashion industry now days and has encouraged designers such as Virgil Abloh to have a strong voice when it comes to make a statement in fashion and become world influential designer. In relation to the Met gala, I do consider that is an event that represents what the anti-design movement stands for influencing the fashion industry. It is an event that by encouraging designers to create disruptive designs, opens the doors to new forms and different possibilities of innovative design. References
Balenciaga: Leading the anti-fashion revolution? (2020) Available at: https://thinkalt.co.uk/balenciaga-leading-the-anti-fashion-revolution/ (Accessed: 29 January 2023) Cheng, A. (2017) ‘Rihanna Wins the 2017 Met Gala With This Insane Comme des Garçons Dress’, Glamour, 1/May. Available at: https://www.glamour.com/story/met-gala-2017-rihanna-comme-des-garcons-dress (Accessed: 29 January 2023). Khode, K. (2022) ‘Everything to know about the anti-design movement’, 9works, 23/December. Available at: https://www.9works.co/blog/everything-to-know-about-the-anti-design-movement (Accessed: 29 January 2023). Leitch, L. (2021) ‘Virgil Abloh Discusses How Skateboarding Has Influenced His Career’, GQ Middle East, 16/June. Available at: https://www.gqmiddleeast.com/culture/virgil-abloh-unpacks-his-passion-for-skateboarding (Accessed: 29 January 2023). Leitch, L. (2021) ‘Virgil Abloh’s Influence Will Be Remembered Well Beyond Fashion’, Vogue Britain, 29/November. Available at: https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/article/virgil-abloh-impact-on-fashion (Accessed: 29 January 2023). Marain, A. (2021) ‘How Virgil Abloh redefined the codes of Louis Vuitton’s menswear collection in just three years’, Vogue France, 3/December. Available at: https://www.vogue.fr/vogue-hommes-en/galerie/virgil-abloh-louis-vuittons-menswear-collections (Accessed: 29 January 2023). Martinique, E. (2016) ‘Anti-Design Movement - Aestheticism of the Modern Era’, Widewalls, 25/June. Available at: https://www.widewalls.ch/magazine/anti-design-italian-movement (Accessed: 29 January 2023).
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